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Author Topic: 1972 PLUSH CONGRESS IV  (Read 2644 times)
chosenfool
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« on: June 22, 2010, 04:55:10 PM »

Another great craigslist find, this vintage all tube amp hails from the early 70s (01/05/1972 to be exact, as penciled in under the chassis itself).

As a background, Plush amplifiers were made from 1969 thru 1973, apparently direct copies of either a fender showman or a twin reverb. Its main striking feature is the now identifiable "tuck and roll" covering not unlike that of Kustom amps, instead of the regular tolex coverings. Not surprisingly they were sued, either by Kustom or Fender (not sure), and its been said they went out of business due to bankruptcy from these litigations (but the story goes that they went on to become Earth Sound Amplifiers, who in their early life also had tuck and roll covering on their early amps, though nothing real conclusive to support this Plush-Earth Sound connection other than whats been generated thru forums and posts). Earth Sound also went the way of the dinosaurs eventually.

THE FIND:

Trolling craigslist one night, the ad "PA tube head - $100" immediately caught my eye. "Tube" and "$100" together are usually a good indicator of a possible good deal, so i checked it out. Two things stood out - the tuck and roll covering, and a bunch of knobs to match several inputs. Whoa! Mixer? it said PA, so i googled the name, and sure enough most results were about asking the same question i have: what is a Plush Amplifier?
A website about plush amps did answer most of that question, so i called the number on the ad right away, and left a message. As a follow up i also emailed. I got a response the next morning, and proceeded to arrange for pickup. A little drive out to the country on a sunny early sunday afternoon is a nice change - one of the cool things i enjoy about out-of-the-way weekend drives.

The guy was nice, and spoke about how being a drummer, he had not much use for the amp anymore. It did power on, but didnt hook it up to a cab or even try it out - we spoke at length about the virtues of vintage and analog instruments. In the end i almost got an unloaded 2x18 ampeg cab, but having a small car, it wasnt going to be an easy transport (and i have no  more space in my house!). i DID get a project solidbody guitar also for cheap - a double cutaway setneck Aspen brand, no pickups and with a bad paintjob, all other hardware included. for $5 with a harshell case also included, i couldnt turn it down. But that's another story....

INITIAL START-UP AND RESTORATION:

As soon as i got home, i plugged the head into a 2x12 cab loaded with Carvin British Series US-made speakers. The tubes glowed and warmed up, and sound came thru once i plugged a guitar in.
It sounded clean, though several knobs wont turn, and some are stiff. The reverb didnt work, and channel 4 sounded weaker than the other 3. No big hum or extraneous noise were heard (other than what i was making thru the guitar), so the guitar is functional as is, just needs work.

A couple of contact cleaner sprays allowed the stiff pots to twist easier, but there were 6 that were completely stuck and frozen - no amount of clamping and pliers twisting freed it loose. I ended up replacing them temporarily with my own stock of Alpha pots, eventually ordering the correct size (i had the correct values, but they were mini pots - it works great, but it just looked odd to keep it that way). Reading the stamped code on the back showed they were Centralab pots, and man - NOS are expensive! So i got the next best thing - CTS pots. as soon as they arrive, ill be opening up the amp again.
I ended up changing two pots, and moving the current pots around to get all of the untwistable ones on one channel - at least i can have 3 usable channels til i get the orders in.
Workng without schematics (there were NONE found anywhere online), i made sure the values are correct for the gain and master volume pots (1 Meg), but i didnt inspect the tone pots - i thought they were all 250k. I realized it later when i saw the midrange control pots were 100k. oops! oh well, thats a lesson for me, plus its not that big of a deal - it will be corrected when i get the order in.
but for now, the goal is to get it to full working condition. After the pots were properly cleaned with contact cleaner, i proceeded to check the preamp tubes by removing one at a time and playing each channel- with a pencil, i marked each preamp tube that corresponded to what channel, and to what sockets they were in. Doing this i found out each channel had its own preamp tube. More on that later...

It had a reverb in and out RCA connectors in the back, and seeng no reverb tank inside the cab, i hooked up a working spare reverb tank i had lying around, and didnt have any reverb response either. Bummer.

So on to the next step - I removed the preamp tubes (6 12AX7's, one 12AT7, and one 12AU7), and replaced them for now with new production EH 12AX7's, 1 NOS RCA 12AT7 and 1 RCA 12AU7.
THE SPRING REVERB CAME TO LIFE!!! I dont know where its coming from, but its there alright. The old preamp tubes must be in their last legs. The dry sound is now much stronger, and the reverb sounds quite lush.
The 4 power tubes were  Japan 6L6GC's, and were all branded the same (Realistic), looking like they were all from the same batch, a good chance they are matched. Ive seen several plush amps online pictured with non-matching pairs. I havent tested these yet, but they sounded strong. I may tube-roll with my own old stock 6L6's, but i I see no need to replace them at this time.

After a few more sound checks, i decided to replace the bigger electrolytic caps. After almost 40 years, even though it sounds strong and there were no tell-tale signs of impending burnup or blowout or simple failure, its best to be on the safe side.

Unscrewing what looked to be non-original non-matching screws, the bottom easily fell off, and revealed not just point to point wiring with most of the smaller components on a slim turret board, but the reverb tank as well - THERE IT IS! It looked exactly like my other non-working accutronics tank, only the Plush's tank had pitting and some rust on it.

There were 3 big caps in the under side, and one cap can on top of the chassis. I had to snap a picture of the cap can's side where the cap values are stamped on since it was in an awkward unreadable spot. 3 20uF/500V were needed for this cap can, and 2 80uF/350V and 1 40uF/450V (in series with one of the 20uF caps) under the chassis.
I kept close to the same values, only substituting a 100uF cap on the 80uF ones, and a 47uF for the 40uF. I figured i can replace with a bigger value, but i wanted to hear as close as possible to how the original amp sounded. I can always up the values later on if i see fit (this can also raise the headroom, which for a PA system is paramount, then again im mostly going to plug in a guitar here anyway).

THE JAM TEST

So now that most of the amp is in working, its time to put it thru the Jam Test.  Wink I must say - this is one LOUD MONSTER! Cleans are excellent, and not ice-picky at all. It barely overdrives! To most modern-day guitarist looking for "breakup" or high gain sound, this is a drawback, and not for them at all. This is after all a P.A. amplifier, so its setup NOT to distort. I guess thats one reason the Plush engineers thought best to copy a dual showman or a twin reverb, all for their clean headroom. This one has it! and i thought thats all it had.

My buddy came over for our regular jam, and we put it thru the paces, and lo and behold, he dialed it enough to get real overdrive. WHERE THE HELL IS THAT COMING FROM?!? we took a look at the settings. He was plugged in to Channel 1, gain at 8, bass at 2, mids at 9, and treble at 3. Main volume is at 8. DAMN! turning up the mids and lowering the bass and highs, made this a promising dirty rockin machine!

Further tests revealed the amp is picky about what to get it to overdrive - it wanted bright pickups. The guitar he played was a Luna brand, while i tested a dean Evo (both humbucker equipped). The Evo sounded dark on the Plush (detuned to D). I plugged in a Squier '51 that had a GFS Dream 180 bridge Humbucker (described on their site as having "...the sparkle and chime of our Retrotron Nashville, along with the fat warm bottom of our Alnico PAF pickups",  "...made to combine the chime and jangle of vintage Filtertrons with the warmth and body of a great pair of vintage PAF's). It worked well - the biting overdrive pushed the amp to sound grittier at higher volumes.

For about 3 hours of jamming we used it, plugging different guitars and in different settings. Everything worked, even the 4 frequency cut/bost switches. All 3 hours were earcandy!

On  a separate note: You can tell we used "cheap" guitars. It only goes to show that even low-end guitars can sound amazing if you use a great-sounding tube amp. You can have a super high end guitar that costs a couple thousand dollars, but it will still sound like crap if you pair it with a bad-sounding amp. This is one reason why i shifted to tube amps from being a simple guitar-tech. Knowing tube amps completes the circle of a great electric guitar sound.
And it DOES helps to play decent too. ;-)

ONE BIG SAFETY ISSUE

I'm putting a 3-prong cord in.
The amp came with the original power cord, but with a replacement 2 prong plug (must have worn off, as ive seen pictures with the original plug wearing out right at the plug base). This is then hooked up inside the chassis to a standby switch and a separate 3-WAY toggle switch that has the ON setting up, the OFF setting in the middle, and a Reverse Polarity in the down position.

Back in the day, there used to be NO standard for grounding electrical appliances and equipment. When you have several amps plugged in to the same mains, hum can occur, which can be mitigated by turning the plug around. In this case, you just flip the switch down to set it to the correct polarity.

The problem here is that one you flip down the switch, the chassis or any metal part of it becomes HOT instead of the Ground, and electricity will pass through it. and once you plug your guitar in, it will pass through YOU as well. touch a metal part of another amp that isnt in the same polarity, and you complete a circuit - YOU GET ELECTROCUTED! happened to me. On THIS amp. I flipped the switch down too hard, and kept it ON (reversed polarity), and touched a different properly grounded amp. YIKES!

Im tempted to make the all-in-one bypass/off/on mod with the 3way toggle switch, but i much prefer a separate bypass switch. Seems more traditional, plus might as well use whats on it.

DEDICATED CHANNELS

During the jam test, after we figured out how to coax a crunchy tone out of the 1st channel, we copied the same settings over to channel 2, but it didnt sound as good, and didnt crunch as hard. At first i thought it was the overstated midrange value (250K instead fo 100K), but later on i figured it out with an experiment.

A clue was in one of the post of another Plush owner about modding it, who mentioned that "...each of those channels have a separate section". Preamp? Hmmm.... so i went to town and one by one took out a preamp tube and turned the amp on. Lo and behold, it revealed the tubes that were responsible for getting the sound thru each channel (duh), and even for the reverb! Looking at what i thought was the correct layout, the tubes did NOT line up. I had a high-gain 12AX7 tube in the reverb section, and a 12AU7 in for channel 2. No wonder it sounded weak! a quick change of tubes effectively brought up the volume AND gain, now at level with the rest of the other channels. This also made for a much tamer reverb with a 12AU7 in it.

Now that i know which tube sockets control which channel correctly, there will be preamp tube rolling! I do have a stash of used old stock Mullards, RCAs, Sylvanias, and GEs i can try - heck, i may just simply put a different preamp tube for each channels, and then do an ABCD test.

FURTHER THOUGHTS

Pots will be set back to stock values as soon as the order comes in. Later on one channel will possibly be converted to a twin reverb tone stack. Im thinking another can be set to blackface bassman tone values. along with mods as well (maybe). Im keeping at least ONE channel stock.

A review of the schematics for a dual showman and twin reverb shows that there IS a difference with the pot values, at least the mids. Dual Showman and Twin reverb mid pots show a value of 10K, while the mids on the Plush are set to 100K. The Bass and Treble are all the same at 250K. Bassmans have theirs at 25K.

This was one of my oversights - i assumed the gain and master volume were all 1Meg, and all the tone controls were all 250K, so for the tone, i just simply transposed some over to the other channels without checking. So for channel 2, the mids are set at a higher range (250K), though the difference is noticeable only at much higher gain - the overdriven sound has that thick discernible midrange tone. at lower gain settings the clean tone sounds the same as the other channels, though this is only a preliminary test. Most of the Jam Test were in full overdrive on channel 1, and clean tones across the other channels.

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS (FOR NOW)

This is THE most interesting amp ive acquired, hands down. 100W via 6L6GCs, FOUR DEDICATED CHANNELS (!!!), and an excellent-sounding reverb. ON ALL 4 CHANNELS, SWITCHABLE! It even has 4 frequency boosts/cuts (though i leave them all ON, and just futz with the tone controls). Its simple when you boil it down to what it does, but it does it 4 times! This has the potential to be a versatile guitar amp. And who can deny its quaint soft tuck and roll cover? Its almost perfect - there arent any noticeable tears, just a little nick here and there - pretty clean for something thats been around over the 38 years.
Almost looks like a foot stool. i beter make sure this is NEVER put on the floor - people may think its furniture to sit on!

Great amp, even better price! Wink

Some more pics:















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chosenfool
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« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2010, 11:39:17 AM »

UPDATE: Mods done!

As a result of my pending move, i had to get most of  my stuff in storage, so this sat there for a while, as the parts i ordered started coming in. It was nagging me! So i pulled it out of storage, and went to work.

1) 3-Prong Cord, (no more shocks!) which allowed me to place a...
2) ...Simple 2way toggle switch for Power On/Off. removed the 3 way toggle switch that had the down switch to Reverse Polarity. Kept the Standby switch separate.
3) EL34 mod. Allows me to use EL34 tubes (which i have now) for a darker overdriven tone, and revert back to 6L6GC tubes without reversing the mod. Ive been jonesin' to do this on my Fender Bassman 10. Great mod!
4) Stiff pots replaced with correct sized CTS pots (with correct stock values).
5) Increased the value of the plate resistors for channel 3. This gives it less headroom, which makes for an earlier break up.

Why channel 3? Right now even with the correct pots replaced, somehow channel 3's Bass doesnt work. Midrange works well, Treble works a little, but the Bass has no effect. Gain knob works as it should, and the reverb slide on/off switch works. Oddly enough in clean settings Channel 3 sounds not as bad as one would think - still usable and quite frankly musical. But the lack of bass actually was beneficial, as i soon found out.

Upping the value of the plate resistor made an immediately noticeable change - this thing now sounds KILLER! The distortion is more defined, clearer, meaner! Remember on the first post when found a setting for a good overdriven sound going? The lack of a bass sound (or control of it) made it easier to dial in a BETTER SOUNDING distortion! This was done using EL34 tubes. Ive been solo jamming on this thing dimed on a 4x12 crate slant cab for hours now. And im not getting tired! Im still working on channel 3's odd non-working bass, but the amp still keep amazing me.

As i keep poking around inside the amp, im finding that Plush truly copied Fender amps closely - almost a clone! Ive studied the schematics of a Twin Reverb, and each component and part of this amp corresponds almost exactly to the specs on paper. The best part (pun intended)- Theyre BLACKFACE specs! I started to find out about it as i went thru the list of what's needed to blackface a silverface Fender amp. There's nothing for me to change! By the way, this list can be found online, just do a search. I also have a couple of books that teach this specifically. Being a visual learner, this twin clone makes it easier for me to learn more about amps as i read thru the books im studying. Very INSPIRING!
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pyramid[eye]
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« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2010, 09:01:39 PM »

Hi! Cool to see someone diving head first into one of these. I've actually managed to acquire two of them! Can I ask you a question? I'm a bit freaked out to plug it into a cab cuz I have no idea what the impedance is and I can't track down a manual for it anywhere, unsurprisingly. (I have a spotty history of amps going sour on me!) I could maybe figure it out as it's so close to blackface specs but I'm such a useless dweeb with anything beyond really basic stuff. What kinda speaker configurations do like with it, while I'm askin?

Mine are both dated early '72 as well, and I see fewer of them show up online or elsewhere than the 1060s or the Earth g2000; they must have had a really brief production run.

Not playing these is killing me.
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chosenfool
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« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2010, 02:56:15 AM »

Hi! Cool to see someone diving head first into one of these. I've actually managed to acquire two of them! Can I ask you a question? I'm a bit freaked out to plug it into a cab cuz I have no idea what the impedance is and I can't track down a manual for it anywhere, unsurprisingly. (I have a spotty history of amps going sour on me!) I could maybe figure it out as it's so close to blackface specs but I'm such a useless dweeb with anything beyond really basic stuff. What kinda speaker configurations do like with it, while I'm askin?

Mine are both dated early '72 as well, and I see fewer of them show up online or elsewhere than the 1060s or the Earth g2000; they must have had a really brief production run.

Not playing these is killing me.

Hey there!
I think the main speaker out is 16ohms. my rule of thumb: if in doubt use a 16ohm cab.

I plugged this one into a 16ohm cab (2x12 Carvin British Series speakers, 200W total), and i also tried an old 4x12 Kustom cab  with G12-75 celestion speakers (16 ohm/300W total).

i would plug it in first to a 16ohm cab, rated at at least 100W, maybe go higher to be safe - Plush advertised these PA amps as 110W. Not sure if thats peak, or RMS, or just plain puffery, but id follow it just to be safe.
And i wouldnt plug anything expensive yet. Use a "beater" speaker cab, something you wont lose sleep over if it gets blown. But if you start safe, experiments shouldnt go haywire at all.

but always make sure its plugged in to a speaker first! thats in case you absent-mindedly turn it on without one.  which i seem to do more often than not... having nothing plugged in when turning the tube amp on is worse than mismatched impedances.
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chosenfool
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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2010, 03:08:25 AM »

this reminds me, i have to update my amp list. again. i got another one of these, this time it was Earth Sound Research -branded. Its front panel is almost identical, but its guts look a bit different. And its got a handy handles on the sides now! Reverb works, and all channels work fine. Just the  slide switches to turn on the reverb on each channel needs replacing.

i also got a Plush 1000 about a month later. This is easily one of my top 5 amps now. The only thing wrong with it was the tremolo - even shorting the RCA out for the footswitch with an alligator clip didnt work. I ended up getting replacing the LDR from radioshack, and voila! wonderful LUSH tremolo to pair with the equally lush reverb. The only other thing i had to get was a fender footswitch. Man, when they said they cloned fenders, they werent kidding! i think the 1000 was really a twin reverb copy. i havent gone in depth, but preliminary inspection seemed to almost have a 1 to 1 match with whats on the archived fender schematics. From what ive gathered (and again, maybe just another rumor), it was the Peavey lawsuit that killed them.

yep, id call these tube amps an anomalous treasure. Grin
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pyramid[eye]
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« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2010, 06:16:31 PM »

Yeah a guy I know has a g2000 (which iirc I've read is rated at 2ohms? I wonder if it's the same for the Congress...) and he said the only difference from blackface twin specs was the phase inverter.

I've heard the Peavy lawsuits killed them, too, but I've also heard that Peavy went and dropped the suit when their lawyers advised just changing their own amp specs because it'd be cheaper--which for a number of reasons sounds really suspect to me, but who knows! Maybe people took one look and passed them off as odd Kustom wannabes.

Thanks for the help! Now I just gotta drag my cab outta storage, which come to think of it I have no idea what that's rated at either!
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Starboy76
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2011, 11:00:23 PM »

I have one of these.  I find the best way to get overdrive is to put the channel gain on full and then control your volume with the master gain.  The first time I tried it, I couldn't believe it was used for vocals.
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chosenfool
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2011, 01:29:26 PM »

I have one of these.  I find the best way to get overdrive is to put the channel gain on full and then control your volume with the master gain.  The first time I tried it, I couldn't believe it was used for vocals.

yeah, it still amazes me. i guess they figured fender always sounded 'clean', and with a few mods, made a 4-channel PA out of their showman/twin.

im keeping an eye on ebay or even on local craigslist here for those 2x15 tuck n' roll cabs to pair it with (original Plush, Earth, or even Kustom cabs). heck, ANY SIZE tuck n' roll cabs, really.

just wondering, what speakers/cabs did you hook up yours to? The original cabs that came with it? What's their impedance/ohms?
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Starboy76
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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2011, 03:16:11 PM »

I just hooked it up to a marshal cab 4x10.  Not sure of the ohms.  It's in a spot where I can't get behind it right now.  I had the bass at I quarter, the mids at half and the treble full.  It also helps to fiddle with the frequency switches.  You can get some cool variations.
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pyramid[eye]
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« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2011, 07:19:48 PM »

dude the 3x12 version of the towers (for the earth pa) are on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-PLUSH-PA-COLUMN-SPEAKERS-3-12-/250784702913?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a63eee1c1
i saw an old ad for them and it looked like they offered the pa with a number of speaker options on the towers.
i saw the 4x10 combo version of the g-2000 on ebay, too, but i owe the gf too much money. dying a slow death over here.

i finally went ahead and plugged each of my C-IVs into an old crate cab i have. the sparkly blue guy seems to have trouble hitting full volume, reverb ~sorta~ works, and there seems to be a cut in the treble or something. the gnarly black one sounds great but totally needs a deoxit job on the pots and could probably stand a re-cap.

i can NOT get overdrive out of either! maybe the tele i'm driving it with just isn't doing the job, maybe they've been modded, idk. sounds really good with the catalinbread fn5 i've been hitting it with and i suppose an amp with the headroom these things have are just screaming 'use pedals with me'. as soon as i can save the money i have to get it to a tech and then start the process over for a proper cabinet.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2011, 08:49:04 PM by pyramid[eye] » Logged
Starboy76
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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2011, 12:25:11 AM »

I've always been able to get quite a bit of overdrive.  Not super distorted.  A nice vintage sound.  I had to have the whole thing overhauled at one point when it blew up on me.  It wasn't cheap.  Just plugged it in again yesterday after about a year.
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bassistheplace
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« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2012, 10:42:29 AM »

Hi, first I must say that the info you provided in this post has been very useful to me and I thank you for it. I have a plush congress iv that has been sitting idle for several years and I just decided to bring it back to life. First it had the wrong poer tubes (6550 instead of 6l6) I rectified this, next it contains mostly 12au7 preamp tubes through out. I decided not worry about this at the time, put them on my tube tester and they checked out fine. It has the three prong grounded cord. I inspected the unit carefully for any obvious descrepancies, plugged in a speaker to the main out on back turned it on. It lit up nicely, but had a continuos hum similar to a 60 hz, but I am not completly sure about this. I pull one preamp tube at a time just to eliminate early stage issues, the hum continued. I have ordered new electrolytic caps and they should arrive soon.

Is there anything else you could suggest I check or verify? I am a semi-self trained electronic tech who is always eager to learn from others. I appreciate any help from anyone.

Thanks!
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bassistheplace
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« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2012, 12:46:42 PM »

I discovered my problem, 2x80mfd cap straight off rectifier diodes bad. I replaced with 2x100mfd. This amp now sounds so strong with no hum at all.
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chosenfool
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« Reply #13 on: February 14, 2012, 04:01:30 PM »

bassistheplace! welcome!

glad our frankenstein experiments into the unknown helped you in some way. Smiley
also glad to know you also figured out the issue yourself, i'm in and out of this site these days, busy with other priorities, so it takes some time for me to respond.

AND thanks for coming back here to let us know exactly the problem and fix. It's annoying when someone posts "ok, i fixed it." then they're gone. what did they do??? we all would like to know!

these old amps are quite temperamental, with all the old components drifting way off in their values, and some outrightly dead. not just mostly dead, but all dead.

the temptation to replace ALL the components that look bad is there, but i've learned to just replace the essentials first (electrolytic caps, broken resistors, bad tubes, 2-prong plugs, brittle power cords), then if it sounds great after, LEAVE IT ALONE! i've mucked up good old amps by being overzealous. Sometimes those drifting components are what makes it sound good!

thanks again for the update! keep 'em coming!
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bassistheplace
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« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2012, 04:18:58 PM »

Thanks for the reply! I learned a great deal repairing this jewel. Servicing an amp without schematics has actually been educational and frustrating,lol. Most of my experience is on Marshall 100 watt plexis. Visit my facebook page "Tube Audioman", send a freind request if you like.

Again, thanks for all your help!

Tim
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